Calcutta, Holi and a Never Ending Story reference...

When we last joined our hero, he was just arriving in India, at the city of Calcutta/Kolkota...


Sigh, it was finally time to wave goodbye to the Mekong...but not before leaving one final mark at the airport...



Well, with that delightful pop culture reference out of the way we were on our way to india!


















...but not quite like that. It's funny, my images of india have always settled around people, cows, everything being covered in coloured paint or dust...a festival I now know is called Holi, something I was lucky enough to catch on our first day in Kolkota (previously called Calcutta):




















It was a really great city, we worked out the metro (Yes, dad, I know you're proud of us!) without any problems and made it from our hotel to the main backpacker area, Sudder Street. Adorned with cheap cafes and an internet cafe or tow, this is where we spent most of our time. We also travelled down Park Street, which was full of fine dining Indian restaurants (by british standards , still cheap as chips). It was nice to be treated like high society for a change. We shopped around a bit (I found a bookshop that sold superman and batman back issues) and are still on the lookout for the elusive American cinemas, which we hope to at least find today before we have to leave.
Leave? So soon? but yes, dear reader, I'm afraid a backpacker can never sit still. We're off this evening to the Holy city of Varanasi! Our first Indian train...a little nerve wracking, not at least because its 14 hours, and if Indian train stories are true then...well. Never mind.
So far India is brilliant, the food is amazing and the people are friendly, with as much or as little as you want to do. Poverty in Kolkota is quite extreme, but we've learnt to deal with beggars and street sellers before. To be honest, India so far is quite a confusing country, you have this poverty, beggar women and kids, makeshift houses in the middle of a decaying street, andthen you have music and dvd shops. You have sexualised women in the streets and in the papers, but you hear about mass female suicide thanks to the strict caste laws. More investigation is needed, but I expect it's where you go.
I shall post again just before I leave varanasi!

Intermission

Asia. Hm. The word seems to change meanings so often for me that I'm never sure whats "asian today" and what's "asian tommorow". Meanings is the wrong word...definitions. Definitions for asia or asian have never seemed to be one thing or another. Originally asian was anyone oriental, now its anyone middle eastern. Is asia china and japan? Or India? or even vietnam...cambodia...Laos? Thailand? And where do all those Islands fit into this. The answer is theoretically just a wikipedia click away, but for me it will always be a little confused. Which sort of fits with this intermission: "what is/was asia to me?".
You see, Part 1 (see 'Prologue') is now over. I'm in an Indian internet cafe, trying to reflect on the first part of my trip. I guess if I think of asia now, I'll think of that trip. I'm going to remember...majestic temples, biking on bamboo bridges, boat trips down the mekong, tubing down a mountain stream, squeezing off a few rounds at the local gun course, dairylea cheese being the only cheese in existance (an it existed EVERYWHERE), rope swings into waterfalls, wrapping a snake around my neck and bus trip after bus trip after bus trip.
But and evaluation? gosh... The area I went too, the greater mekong, certainly had its ups and downs. But mostly ups. I loved the fact that it really is a place geared towards travellers, there are bars, and pizzas and treks and tours...it makes life a lot easier. But how much culture to get out of that? search me. Which is of course hwy its important to stretch out and find the things that make asia different, a tour does make this a lot easier (but more on the tour later) Certain parts certainly seemed to have a more dollar fixed attitude towards backpackers. Which was a pity, because 99 times out of a 100 they just weren't going to get a penny from us. And the more people that beg, the more people that harass, the more people that do up their kids and train them to be the cutest things they can (instead of going to school) the more the country is going to suffer. It doesn't help, of course in a country like thailand when the biggest extortion racket in town is run by the cops, and the government officials care more about the drug dealers pay off than the economy. I think the region has a while to go before some of its countries can start achieving and get out of the downward spiral. To tourists create this? or was it just the best way for a human being to make money? Laos and Vietnam seem to have it on more of the right track than Thailand and Cambodia, maybe it just depends where you look. It was in the cities of thof these countries where you could see the poverty in full hold.
But then was it really the bustling cities I got the most out of was it? It was the vast pastures, the quiet villages, the epic mountains, blue waters and white sandy beaches. These are the places you can get the most out of the mekong, touristy or not. I suppose that would be my advice. Search out the best places outside of a city and whether its touristy or not won't really matter. A tour is a mized bag, but can help (however I am REALLY enjoying being a free agent, it just takes a little building up too)
Being on a tour meant you were a little cut off from the reality of backpacking...but it was a good way to start travelling, a safe way and a fun way. However, this does bring me onto the sad fact that some members of the group you like, and some you don't. and some you want to throw into the nearest crocidile pool. Yeah, the group could certainly be frustration at times...but ce' la vie. Sam was always there, it is important that you take the right people/person travelling with you, adn me and sam have said on numerous occasions that our twin brother was the right choice. Bizzarely we've become more and more alike, or at least, our minds have become syncronized, which does remind of His Dark Materials.
And there's the link to the next paragraph: bits of the trip that aren't the trip. My books I'll come to later, HBO first. You'd be surprised how useful a TV and movie channel is to the backpacker, its not something I'd reccomend to often, but it certain is awelcome way to let an hour or two slip away without worry. Plus its free. Movies certainly seem to be the universal hobby, everyones got their favourites and least favourites, so its a great conversation starter too. And everyones got the same channels, so everyone watched XXX starring vin diesal at some point on their trip (just not everyone had to do it with 3rd degree sunburn, as if that movie wasn't painful enough).
Something elese everyone can connect on is Politics, and thats also been a running outside theme, since the american primaries have been going and going. You see a speech there, a result there, you form opinions, and of course a favourite. Almost surrealy you might be lucky enough to visit a remnant of one of the candidates, we were near the Hanoi Hilton, the place that almost destroyed John McCain through brutality and torture. I'm a staunch Obama supporter, though, I couldn't have hope for a much better next President, especially since he seems to go from strength to strength. He's had a tough fight, though, and its going to get dozens of times tougher if he has to run against McCain. Fingers crossed, if there was ever a point that I believed could turn American around for the first time in decades, it would be now.
The greatest joy I've had from outside things has not been the TV, nor my Ipod, but His Dark Materials. At the moment I'm almost at the end of book 2, the Subtle knife. Its really reawakened my passion for the fiction novel in my mind, something which although has never quite been subdued has really been severely lestened in recent years. The experience of a novel is such a personal one, I feel myself get connected to this world and it's people which I can escape into at any moment and become completly immersed. The books themselves I feel are suitable for a multitude of ages, its very well written, and their themes and issues are complex and deep, especially for anyone interested in religion. They're great fantasy novels as well, slowly getting more epic as they go along, hopefully building to a good climax. It would be a little annoying if it petered out at the end! Though for me, its more about the escapism, the connection I have with this world and characters that I get from a novel more than anything.
Also, for the well inclined, Yahtzee and his weekly dose of video game humour has keapt me entertained as well. He is a genius.
All in All...Laos and Vietnam are places I'm defiantley going to return too. The other too...perhaps not so much. It was in Laos and 'Nam I found the best experiences, the most unique sights. The Mekong is a place which definatley feels like the tourists are the best way of making money, the poverty and corruption is soemthing that is crippling these countries that are still recovering from centuries of bloodshed and instability. There certainly is a strenght, a unity that needs to be had, somewhere. Perhaps economically, perhaps socially...whatever the case as a Backpacker these places can be a great place to start, there is a reason so many of us go there. Its because its the epitamy of backpacking, a culture shock, cheap and magnificent full of dusty roads and dodgy booze, beaches and mountains and an experience above all.
Finally, Asia aside and backpacking come forward. It truly is the best experience of my life, for a deacde and a half in the begginings of my life its all mundanity and education, but backpacking is an escape and an adventure. The lifestyle of excitment and adventure, anticipation and culture shock. Just living it up with a bank balance and a road full of possibilities is something not to be missed. There really is something for everyone, so its worth finding out and saving up.
Jesus, I'm halfway and already I'm making grand sweeping statements as if I'm at the end! India awaits, and I have so much yet to come. So do take this post as a halfway there bit, by the end I hope to have a little more to add onto all this.
Asia to me now is my 40 days of fun and excitment, up and down the Mekong area, lets hope India can find a way to trump it!

Laos, a return and an end to asia

When we last joined our hero, he was entering into Laos, about to finish his 40 day journey into the greater Mekong....

Laos was amazing. I didn't quite know what to expect from it at all, but it was awesome. We started of in the capital, vien tien, though it doesn't look much like a capital, very small and silent, everything closes very early. We did discover that if you order 3 pitchers opf beer, most places will give you your own mobile beer tap to pull em yourself! amazing fun! It was here that I had my first encounter with the scandinavian bakey chain (I say chain, but there are two in Laos. But that is a chain in Laos apparently). Its like subway but better. enough said.
Laos is an incredibly scenic country, breathtaking monoliths and mountains rise up of the ground everywhere you look, the rivers are wide and gorgeous and the jungles come straight out of indiana jones. Its a beautiful country.
In our next destination Vien Vieng, I didn't quite realise the backpacker-fest that was about to occur. You see, it has this wonderful invention of tubing. You rent a big inner tire tube, and float down the most beautiful river you've ever seen with mountains and jungles all around you. However, there are also 20 or so backpacker bars with cheap alchohol and the biggest, baddest rope swings you've ever seen, launching you into the water!!! plus plenty of party people around to play volleyball and table tennis, etc. The town itself is also very party central, A place called the smile bar is full of the party spirit and plenty of fun and interesting (though completley intoxicated) people to chat to and have a good time with! Plus I bought a batman jumper of a street seller! The rest of the town is hangover central with most of the cafes showing endless friends and the office episodes, and serving pizzas and sunday roasts and full english's. The party spirit really captured us all. Plus I got to update my Ipod! (Dane Cook , O Brother Where art THou Soundtrack, Johnny Cash Greatest Hits, and of course GTA Vice City Flash FM and VRock!)
After that we hit Laung Prabang, another national heritage site. The quiet market town mixed bookshops and bakeries (including another scandinavian one). It was here Me sam and a few others embarked on a 3 hour trek through the Laotian jungle, to get to the gorgeous waterfalls where we swam and swung on rope swings, it was a really magical experience.
Afterwards we started our journey to Chiang Mai in Thailand, where my asian journey would come to an end. It was my very own apocalypse now as I journyed down the river towards the Thai border.
We stayed a night on one island where the electricity turned off at 1030. Mix that with a huge thunderstorm, wind blowing things around the street, plus several dozen horror movie cliches and It felt a little unnerving. But I survived what was going to be 'I can hazard a guess at what you did last summer' to travel on to chiang mai. The border crossing was very easy, we were in Thailand mid morning and in Chiang Mai by mid afternoon.
On the way there, I visited the white temple. Now, I've seen a lot of temples in asia, I'm sure you've all seen plenty of pictures and know what your basic asian temple is or is meant to look like. Not this one. Its modern, and made compelty our of some white stone that glares in the eyes thanks to the intense sunlight. There are IMMENSLLY detailed statues of ferocious demons about to attack, a lake of hands coming out of the ground, looking as if they're grabbing at life itself, but its when you get inside the temple things get freaky. A massive, horrific fresco painting of a very modern hell, the familiar massive demons and dragons, but the've got m16's and bio-missiles for fingers and tentacles, and the twin towers stand burning, oil flowing our of them to feed some demon heads, and then at the bottom, a pair of converse shoes. A huge demons left eye had george bush in it and the right osama bin laden, and just when you think this is an anti west thing...is that...Neo? Thats right, Neo, Keanu Reeves from the matrix stands on a demons finger ready for action, an alien sits one end of the painting, a predator on the other side, pod racers and jabba the hut float oddly amongst the hellish chaos...what the hell is going on? is this a predicition of hell, a vision of the future, an anti west painitng, a buddhist temple, or one big pop culture painting?
Whatever it is, its the best temple ever.
For those that do want to look into it further it's called Wat Rong Khun and it has a wikipedia page.
First day in Chiang Mai, and me, Sam and one other meber of the groupp went elephant riding which was AMAZING! so much fun, the elephant reminded me of Poppy Langan (disobidient lazy and ALWAYS demanding food). We had our last group dinner that evening as most of the group was leaving the next day (today). I wandered around the night market, buying some black raybans for Cath (do you want some red ones too? and which size did you want small medium or large?) and an awesome Tin Tin T-shirt (well I'll of bought it by tonight hopefully).
Today me and sam had a capitalist day, starbucks (iced mochas with whipped cream rule), subway and of course, mcDonalds (DOUBLE BIG MAC!)
We fly tommorow, late afternoon. This is the end of our asia trip, I'll do a summarizing blog in the next day or so. This is a real crossroads for me and sam, in my mind we're halfway through, and yet theres so much to come and so much to look back on. Its gone so quickly...but I'll try and think of some meaningful stuff to put down in the next blog. Most of my entries are very brief diary entries essentially chirpy what I've been doing segments, so I'll try and make the next one a bit more personal. By the by Photos ar ebecoming harde rand harder to put on these blogs, so although I have lots of good ones, its just starting to take up too much damn time! Sam is especially frustrated with his useless card reader and websites, but we shall show you some good ones soon, he certainly plans to spend a day in an internet cafe as hes eager to show you some of his great shots. thanks, chums.
Now, which way to the airport...?

There now follows an intermission...

Karaoke, Ha Long Bay and Hanoi

When we last joined our hero, he was in Hoi An, approaching the end of his time in Vietnam...

Leaving Hoi An meant leaving lots of good cake. This made me sad. Hoi An was also ther place that I saw the orphanage for children affected by agent orange, something I'll remember for a long time.

Ayhoo, we then travelled up to the place that was on the top of my itinery choices, Ha Long Bay! We travelled out by boat, and got treated to some gorgeous sights as we dined on local fish dishes. We visited some caves, with the fossilised spine fo a dragon in it. hm. But the highlight was jumping off the top of the boat into the waters when we were midway out. A long drop, but accompanied by me singing the superman film theme, I managed to pluck up the courage!

We made port in an island in the north of ha long bay, and stayed there a night, which is deffinatley one for the CV. Especially since I did an amazing rendition of 'Gangsters Paradise' in the local karaoke bar. followed by the Pokemon Theme. and Candle in the Wind. and Immigrant Song.

Sam also did 'don't look back in anger', which I've said I won't upload in video form, but will show to anyone willing when I return home!

After Ha long bay, we made ouyr way to Hanoi, our leaders hometown and said goodbye, the vietnam social was a disaster! nothing was open, adn we were given funny looks by everyone we went and saw. But no matter, we made up for it in Laos, where we've travelled to next, and where I'm writing from now! I'll tell all in my next blog. In closing here's Lt Laurence and Sniper Sam for your individual entertainment.

Enjoy. Oh, and following up from me drinking, snake wine, I have now also drunk wine made out of Goats Testes. Go me!

Cake, Tailors and BIG WAVES!

When we last joined our hero, he was continuing his jounrey up the coast of Vietnam...

Nha Trang continued to grow on me, as I frolicked at the beach with the BIGGEST waves I have seen in a long time. I'm seriously talking about 8-10ft monsters that knock you over and wash you into the shore it was SO much fun! Unfortunetly, the sunburn I got from the beach wasn't so much fun...but was worth the good time I had! So, I have been in a bit of pain the last few days...I'm almost cured, though.
After Nha Trang we travelled up to the best place I've been so far on the entire trip, which was Hoi An. Me and sam rented some bicycles and rode all around the old village there, which is a national heritage sight, and the place was just so peaceful it completly captured us. Plus they had bakeries offering the most mouthwatering cakes ever.
There were also plenty of cltohes shop offering tailored stuff, as you will find often in asia and india for a pretty reasonable price, but it was here we atchully had the fun of getting something! Its a lot of fun, piles of different cloth and material, and the tailors lay out all these magazines and you pick the bit of clothing you want in the material you want and then haggle for the price. The reason this was so much fun, though, was because one of our post-uni members came up with the idea of a Vietnam social. for the non-uni inclined, socials are like fancy dress clubbing sessions with a theme...this being army. So now 8 of us each have a completly different bit of tailored camo clothing, with 'US ARMY' on the front, and our name and rank on the back! awesome fun, especially for me, because with us all in our slightly personalised uniform, it's the closest I've ever felt to being in A SUPER TEAM!
Shopping in general is good in Hoi An, my sister and her friends would have a blast!
I shall upload pictures of my outfit when it's complete (aviator shades still to get). After a few days in Hoi An, we're making our way towards Hanoi (where the social will take place), taking scenic bus ride through the mountains and stopping off now in Hue, a fishing town. Everyone is preparing for the steadily building freezing cold weather, thanks to a monsoon coming down from the north, hopefully we won't be hitting tidal waves when we hit ha long bay.
No pictures this time, I'll upload a few next time to make up for it.
Oh and, I'm 'Lieutenant Laurence' and my brother is 'Sniper Sam Langan'. For those interested.